Aceh in Sumatra

My last island I have visited was Sumatra. And there, a province named Aceh which is placed very up north. Aceh is very famouse in Indonesia, for variety of reasons - not all so amusing. Because of people in Aceh and their donations, Indonesia could buy its first commercial plane and start aviation service, after declaring Indonesia's independence in about after WWII. But, pretty much since that time as well, Aceh was fighting for its own independence from Indonesia. It was a serious with arms-involved conflict and Aceh was not accessible and open to just anyone. The whole incident cruelly ended by a hit of enormous tsunami coming from Indian Ocean in December of 2004...impacting lives of millions of people in Aceh (and, yes, at the same in Thailand, India and other places). And now, in 2008, you can still see the tsunami touch all over the coast (over 100 km!) and especially in the capitol city, Banda Aceh. That's where I stayed. Every Sunday, the whole city was out of power for almost entire day, roads were still developing...houses still ruined. But, there was also amazing work done - at least, all people have roof over their heads now thanks to international community and there are new schools or mosques. The other fact Aceh is outstanding for is that the whole provice is following Sharyah islamic law. Which means, for women that is, to be covered from head to toes or not to go out in night without a male companion (husband or family member). It also means, no alcohol in the province and sleeping with ear-plugs if you dont want to hear this typical call for prayer coming from mosques at 430am everyday. So, that was a place where I stayed for about 3 weeks. I have to say, that i was leaving Jakarta a bit anxious as people gave me lots of these serious-face comments and recomendations. Aceh - tsunami, hot, mosquitoes, Sharyah law...and strange people who dont understand well bahasa Indonesia (but, hey, so did i). As I said, no reason to look excitedly foward to this experience.

And then, I arrived...

And, things were almost as poeple said. It was hot and mosquitos welcomed me at the airport. And with first steps into the airport building, un-covered women got quickly coverd. And so did I. Even though, not all "white" women take it that seriously. Then, on my way to my guest house, I could see and feel the bumpy roads. And traffic very mellow and simple which represented the first positive aspect of life in Aceh. The next one I experienced after I arriving into my guest house - and meeting with Ibu Ipah. The house was great, big and clean with a cozy patio and beautiful garden. And Ibu Ipah very sincere, talking fast and with many words, and almost nothing in English. My room was a decent size, clean, with BR and AC. And clean...Ok, a great accommodation, in addition with a decent landlord, checked.

And then, next day, I met with 'my teachers' - 20 of them. A big group. But...not all that strange-minded. Rather, patiently awaiting new words to come. On recommendation of my boss, I slowed down a bit and extended the training. And so, I got to know the teachers more then in other provinces, and vice versa, I guess. This time, our training started in the middle of the week and I was hoping for a teacher-free day on Sunday, but...I got a straw hat from them and invitation on the beach. They did not have enough of me during the training. Oh, well... The training went well and we even had some fun. And actually, best participant from all the provinces came from Aceh - young teacher, completely open-minded, smart, focused and ready for updating her career. No body expected this to happen, definitely no one in HKI.

The next good thing, as you might remember, was Ibu Ipah. She was a home stay lady, neat and a great cook. Her seafood...hmmm...just heaven in my mouth. Be it tuna, shark, squid..sardines...you name it. Spicy, lots of lime....delicious. Her and her husband really appreciated that I am such a avid, well, eater ...and took me to several trip to local fishermen's villages where we, or rather they (in local bahasa Aceh), were picking up and negotiating our lunch or dinner. Great time. And opportunity for using my straw hat again.

And not only fishermen...but due to Ibu Ipah social spirit I could also attend a local wedding and even an aerobic session (yes, you are reading and understanding it correctly) with a very spicy islamic instructor. All unique experiences (even though, I obviously knew what is aerobic;). Ibu Ipah was obviously missing a daughter in her family; she was living in all male household (3 sons, husband). She was happy to socialize with me....even though, there was a significant language barrier. But, she did not care...and talk...and talk...and talk....and, well, I listened...and did not understand much. I know she was sincere.

And thanks to my school visits, I got to see also the landscapes out of the capitol city - real Indonesia, Sumatra. I was hoping to see bunch of elephenats...as 35 of them "visited" and searched a nearby village during my stay in the area...but I have only seen one. Oh well, maybe next time, right? But, I have got to see lots of monkeys...as they are just essential features of the Aceh country side. Same as palm trees..and goats...and buffaloes...and yes, mosquitoes.

Well, well...Aceh was really a lovely dot after my weeks-lasting islands hopping. And Ibu Ipah gave me a box of her delicious tuna as a farewell gift. And, furthermore, she brought me to the airport a bag of pisang goreng (roasted bananas) at last minute! (after I already passed the security points, so that I had to go out and meet her and then pass them agian...with my roasted bananas bag).... which I got to chew on and remember her for next 2 days (and, sure, even beyond).

Then, leaving for Jakarta was not all that easy and without a certain sentiment...for Aceh and its people, and Ibu Ipah. I know whenever, and if, I come to Aceh again, it will be almost like coming to home to a family. I will be always welcomed.

And now, getting ready for almost last phase of my mission - phase 2 - training for selected teachers (of phase 1) which will be happening next week here, in Jakarta. Back to work.

PS. Notice the date of my post and wish me luck! I will do the same for you.